It seems that no-one is immune from the desire to search the past for design cues. With reference 5320, Patek Philippe men's replica is – after a fashion – picking up where it left off with the controversial Calatrava pilot’s replica watch of two years ago, drawing from the same palette to create a perpetual calendar very unlike any other in recent memory.
The 5320 is a spiritual successor to some famous and much-loved Patek Philippe perpetual calendar Replica designs – the 3448 and 3450 in particular – with the day and month in two small windows at 12 o’clock and the date in a ring around the moonphase at 6 o’clock. It’s one of the simplest perpetual calendar designs in history, and one of the best.
To that you can add a discreet leap year indicator and night-day indicator at either side of the moonphase. But these are the basics, familiar to Patek fans. What is new and interesting about the 5320 is the pipette-style hands and rich cream lacquered dial and the generous use of luminova. That’s right – lume on a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar.
The applied Arabic numerals (gold, lume-filled) are also of interest – on previous perpetual calendars following this layout, restrained baton markers are the norm. The look, Patek tells us, is derived from a specific reference in the archives, circa 1950s. And the case too has a story, harking back to another 1950s replica watch, which is where we get those elegant triple-stepped lugs and stepped bezel.
Inside is the calibre 324 SQ automatic – a new refinement on the 324 automatic. With 327 components it boasts a 45-hour power reserve, is equipped with Patek Philippe’s Gyromax Balance and Spiromax balance spring, and is of course finished to the brand’s usual high standards.